Hello Michael

I invented a never-fail-again process of replacing the broken sleeve washers in the pivot bracket on top of the engine. I was looking for plastic sleeves at the hardware store and unsuccessful there, I turned around and there were brass fittings for water pipes,etc. An easy search rendered one into which the pivot arm fit perfectly with 1/2 threads. A modicum of filing on the threads as shown and they fit right in. A spring in between would secure them in place and even a bit of epoxy on the threads where they slide into the bracket and WHAT A DIFFERENCE in the pedal play and feel. I also noted that I had to readjust the micro switch (which if done according to the Haynes Manual and the only glitch I found in that book, doesn't work right and floods the engine-which is another story below) and the CIS and the Idle and it runs better than ever!

My trials with the micro switch: I found a used one which had a good buzzer/at open and set it acc. to the Haynes manual (which should be a .008/.2mm rather than the .80/2mm feeler gauge---but I could be wrong and would like any input anyone has there) but it flooded the engine on the second start of the day. When I would pull off one of the two wires, the engine would start slowly as if flooded and smelled big time too. Regards the electric microswitch; just looking at it should tell you that it is open all the time and that the only time it should activate the cold/hot start fuel injector is when the starter is turning over, but it would appear that once one pulls up the Throttle to start and notes the position--it would just stream in the fuel and flood it! Of interest, is that with an ohm meter hooked up to my old one which didn't seem to want to buzz, on the ohm setting, the ohms spike quickly and shuts off which say to me that that is correct and that is all you want is a quick spurt to get it going ala as a choke. But my original one won't buzz, though it seemed to a little bit long ago and did on the bench one time too in that spike area.